In early August, I got to enjoy my first trip to Switzerland. As a lover of fondue, cozy cottages, and stunning scenery, I’d had this small but majestic country on the top of my “must visit” list for years. When I was given the chance to embark on Viking’s Rhine River cruise, I eagerly signed up, further inspired by the prospect of spending a few days on the front end exploring Switzerland. We elected to spend time in Basel (Viking’s departure city) and take a day trip up to the Alps. Here’s our itinerary and our favorite recommendations. For more info on the Viking cruise, check out my full review here:
We allocated four days of Swiss exploration before embarking, allowing us to settle into the time zone and explore a country we had never visited before. We stayed in the Hotel Rochat, which offered affordable rooms and was a convenient walking distance from the city center and an easy tram ride to the Viking port. If you choose to stay in Basel, be sure to stay at a hotel or registered rental that offers the Basel Card. It allows you to enjoy free public transportation within the city and offers lots of discounts at local attractions and museums.
Basel
Day 1
We spent the first day wandering around Basel, popping into shops and restaurants that looked interesting. We immediately noticed one of our favorite Swiss traditions: hundreds of people floating in the Rhine River. This is a quintessential summer pastime.
If you want to jump in with the locals, the downtown area has plenty of shops where you can purchase a dry bag. Throw your clothes inside, scope out a section of the river where you can get in and get out easily, watch some more experienced Swiss swimmers do the same route, and enjoy! Be careful. The river is fast-flowing, and you’ll notice that most swimmers stick to the shoreline. Be sure to go slowly and swim within your limits.
If a river swim feels like a big step but you’d like to cool down, check out the town’s many fountains. During hot summer months, you’ll often see the fountains packed with Swiss people, enjoying a cool dip. You’re welcome to join them! In our experience, they welcomed any tourist, provided the tourist respected a “no splashing” rule.
Another fun note about the fountains: they will be your source of on-the-go drinking water. Basel’s public water system is incredibly clean and efficient, so you can fill a bottle from any flowing spout you encounter. But don’t worry. All bathing water is cycled into the river. The water from the spouts is clean and fresh.
To end our first day, we figured, when in Switzerland: find fondue. We sought out the city’s best and found it at Schafeeck. The building is ancient, and the clientele are local. We stumbled in while a local football game was underway and all of the tables were occupied by old-timers and their fondue pots. Luckily a kind couple scooted over to make some room for a few more. Pro tip: be sure to allow the fondue some time to cook. It will come out quite heavy-handed on the alcohol, which subsides if you give it time to cook off.
Day 2
Day 2 was our official sightseeing day. We grabbed tickets for the City Sightseeing Bus Tour (half-off with your Basel Card) and rested our jet-lagged bodies while learning about the city’s history and noteworthy sights. The bus operates as a hop-on-hop-off service, so we were able to get off to explore when we spotted areas of interest.
We chose to hop off at the Dreiländereck stop. This monument is a triangle, representing a converging point between France, Switzerland, and Germany. If you complete a lap around the monument, you will have visited three countries. We also elected to hang back to grab a drink at Sandoase. This cool bar offers a beach vibe (complete with sandy ground) and has a truly unique view of three countries. During the winter, it turns into a cozy winter village. The Swiss are amazingly adaptive!
We finished the bus ride around the city and ventured to Markthalle, a covered indoor market with global food stands and plenty of central seating. If you’re traveling with several people, this is a must-do on one of your days, since everyone can get the meal that appeals most to them, selecting from cuisines spanning nearly every continent. We rounded off our meals (Italian, Thai, and Japanese) with a coffee at one of the small cafes on the edge of the market.
Day two was a big food day, so we decided to enjoy a treat yo’ self night at Basel’s fanciest hotel, Les Trois Rois. The building is gorgeous and contains several restaurants, including Cheval Blanc, which boasts three Michelin Stars. But we weren’t feeling quite that fancy, so we opted for drinks at the Bar Les Trois Rois, which had a delightfully innovative cocktail list, organized by spirits, an extensive mocktail section, and basic but tasty bar bites. They have indoor/outdoor seating, available without a reservation, but you may have to wait for a bit to snag a table outside.
Day 4
I know the numbers here are confusing. We went to the Alps on Day 3, which is the day I recommend taking on that trek. But I want to keep all Basel information in one place. So bear with me!
On the final full day in Basel, we got breakfast at Äss Bar. That’s really what it’s called. I’m not joking. They know it’s funny. The pastries were tasty and affordable. And, as with every other cafe in Switzerland, the coffee was strong and delicious.
We were experiencing a bit of a lost luggage endeavor at this time, so we went on a British Airways-sponsored shopping trip (seriously. Heathrow is a baggage trap!), but it allowed us to check out Basel’s shopping area. We particularly enjoyed Freie Street, which had a wide variety of options and Spalenberg, which offered lots of smaller local boutiques.
We stopped for lunch at Tibits, a fantastic, fresh, healthy restaurant where you’re charged by the weight of your plate. You grab a plate of your choice and load up whatever you’d like from their hot and cold bars. All meals come with a free piece of bread, which they generally remind you to remove from your plate when it’s time to weigh your meal.
We spent the afternoon exploring churches and the architecture in the downtown area and got some souvenir chocolates from Läderach for our loved ones back home. The Schlemmer-Mart (a small farmer’s market) was in full-swing in front of the chocolate shop. We bought some fresh, local fruits from a few vendors for an evening snack.
For our final dinner, we were eager to find a restaurant on the water so we could say goodbye to Basel from a picturesque vantage point. Restaurant Portofino delivered. Continuing a theme for Switzerland, the food was fresh, simple, and satisfying. The service was excellent, with waiters comfortable switching back and forth between Swiss German, French, Italian, and English. We enjoyed a fantastic final meal with a perfect view.
Lucerne
On the third day, we ventured into the Swiss Alps. We caught an early-morning train from Basel to Lucerne. The train was very reasonably priced, though prices vary slightly through the season. Be sure to book all of your train travel in advance on the Rail Europe website. Also be aware that most basic fares are non-transferrable.
We spent a few hours in Lucerne, grabbing breakfast and coffee and exploring the gorgeous covered bridge, classic Swiss architecture, and picturesque swans floating along the vibrant blue water.
For some coffee and breakfast right on the water, check out Mill’Feuille. The views are spectacular, and the food is fresh and satisfying. I’d highly recommend grabbing a bite before getting on the train to the Alps, since the ride takes a few hours and our train didn’t have a food car.
Interlaken
After a few hours enjoying Lucerne, we caught a train to Interlaken. Try to get a seat on the train’s right side to enjoy some breathtaking scenery. The train will wind up steep valleys, rich with green trees and crisp waterfalls. The final stretch of the ride features the milky blue waters of Brienzersee Lake out the train’s left hand side.
Interlaken is an extreme sport mecca. If you’re visiting on a clear day, look up and you’ll spot dozens of paragliders. If adrenaline sports are your thing, you can head into the central town (a short walk from the train station), and partake in any of the numerous activities that local guide groups offer. Be sure to book ahead of time! This area was BUSY, and any activity fills up quickly.
We wandered around the train station area and picked up some sandwiches at the local supermarket before our final stop. We then hopped on the train to Lauterbrunnen. This train runs frequently and your ticket will allow you to ride any Interlaken-Lauterbrunnen train at any time.
Lauterbrunnen
This whole journey may feel like a massive trek, but trust me when I say it’s worth it. Lauterbrunnen is the town that inspired J.R.R. Tolkien to create Rivendell. Surrounded by imposing cliffs and cascading waterfalls, it’s a quintessential Swiss village, complete with bell-toting cows grazing on the lush greenery in front of tiny log cabins. It’s, without a doubt, one of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever seen. Walk around for a while and be sure to grab some raclette and beer at Horner Pub in the town’s center.
Lauterbrunnen does draw heavy crowds during the summer, so be prepared for the town itself to be rather crowded. I’d recommend wearing comfortable shoes and walking through town, past the primary waterfall. The further you go, the more the crowds will fall away and you’ll have a quiet moment with the valley’s many additional waterfalls. It’s truly spectacular.
When you head back, be sure to grab a meal either in Interlaken or in Lucerne, since the return journey will likely return you to Basel late in the evening.
Final Swiss Tips
Money: The currency is the Swiss Franc. We never needed cash, but I love getting my hands on local currency, so we were able to get some from an ATM no problem.
Language: The main spoken language in this part of Switzerland is Swiss German. Most Swiss citizens also speak French and/or English. We had no issues with communication, despite nobody in our group speaking Swiss German. Here are some helpful phrases, if you’d like to practice:
- Good morning: Guete Morge
- Good evening: Gueten abig
- Goodbye: Uf Widerluege / Ciao (I found “Ciao” much easier!)
- Thank you: Dangge
- Train: Zug
Culture: I found Swiss people very straightforward, to the point that I was unsure if I was doing something wrong. My friend who went to school there assured me that Switzerland is a country of blunt honesty. No cause for concern. I’d recommend using quiet voices in public places. Also, politeness goes a long way, so be sure to say “guete morge” and “dangge.”
Final Takeaways
I hope you can enjoy a trip to Switzerland like ours. We found our time there simultaneously peaceful and exciting. In a way, this dichotomy encompasses my understanding of the Swiss people. They enjoy comforts where they can build them yet relish nearby excitement and adventure. As a nation, Switzerland has a spirit strong in its ways but open to others who are eager to explore with respect.
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